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Painless Black Powder Bore Cleaner

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™” ©

NOW IN 2 CONVENIENT SIZES AND IN AEROSOL AND NON-AEROSOL

A  great new sister product WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™.

THIS PRODUCT IS TOTALLY BRUSHLESS

This is the first product of it’s kind to address the issues involved in easily cleaning a black powder firearm.

We call this product ‘PAINLESS” because of all the hassle that has been associated with the complicated and laborious task of cleaning these firearms. Many shooters have refused to shoot blackpowder firearms or have given them up because of the ugly task that this cleaning involved. The new sister product is the answer to this problem!

The recommended use for WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is to apply it and let it set to dissolve the fouling from the barrel for as little as 2 minutes to 30 minutes for removing plastic from saboted bullets.

The product has a working life of more than 24 hours.

However, many shooters will find that they can clean a barrel completely, however in under 2 minutes. This can be a particular advantage to those shooters who need a product that will clean in the shortest time possible because they have severe time constraints. WE CAN SAFELY SAY THAT THIS IS THE FASTEST BLACK POWDER CLEANER ON THE MARKET TODAY.

The general blackpowder shooter falls in to this group because they all have minimal amounts of time to clean their firearms, and more importantly minimal amounts of patients.

Black powder shooters know that just a few shots will g force you to clean due to the degradation of accuracy. In these particular situations a faster, and easier method of cleaning is necessary.

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ was developed to answer those problems and many more.

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is extremely easy to use. You apply to the muzzle depress the button on the can top and fill the barrel.

While WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is still wet in the bore you simply patch out after 2 to 20 minutes. If your second patch comes out clean, your done !

Our tests show that using WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ will effectively dissolve much more fouling than any other method. There is absolutely NO BRUSHING. The barrel is cleaned with only patches. Or in other words WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ work faster and easier, making cleaning a black powder firearm truly “PAINLESS’.

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is as safe to use for all metal finishes as well as both stainless steel and carbon steel.

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ it self is a revolutionary new product that solves all the problems encountered with conventional black powder bore cleaners. NO more hot soapy water, or sloppy buckets. NO more endless brushing. NO harsh chemicals.

Loss of accuracy is normal in all black powder firearms after just a few shots. When these firearms get fouled without cleaning after they have been used in a prolonged shooting session, can be nearly impossible to clean in a single session. The barrel will become fouled with gun powder residue as a result of combustion, additionally: other materials are deposited internally to the barrel, carbon and metal fouling from bullet material, or plastic from the use of a saboted round. These are the most difficult to remove and are the greatest cause for the loss of accuracy in a firearm.

Most traditional black powder bore cleaners are in one of three categories: 1. Not effective and require large amounts of brushing, 2. Semi-effective, but containing large amounts of harsh chemicals, either acid and ammonia and require large amounts of brushing. 3. Semi-effective but so harsh that the user is afraid to be in their presence without-a Bio-suit. These all are both messy and rather involved. Certainly they all require huge amounts of brushing.

Removal of fouling and carbon from the bore can rejuvenate and restore accuracy to and badly fouled firearm. Heavy amounts of brushing to the bore of a firearm can produce damage and unnecessary wear. New WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ was formulated to utilize technology in the safe removal of all types of fouling from the barrel faster, and more efficiently…….and without brushing.

Benefits of WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™

The criteria for this new product WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ were a tough group to satisfy individually let alone collectively. Sharp Shoot R Precision Inc.developed this product with the aid and consultation of competitive shooters, gunsmiths, barrel makers, and manufacturers within the firearms industry. The resulting research and development team produced a revolutionary new type of cleaner:

I. WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ will dissolve bore fouling of all types twice as fast and in half the time without brushing.

II. WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ will protect all metal parts including the bore against corrosion & rust.

III.WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is totally safe for all steels (both stainless and carbon)

IV. WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is harmless to modern gunstock finishes. (it is not for use on shellac, varnish or oil)

V. WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ dissolves carbon without brushing

VI. WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ dissolves smokeless powder fouling, and black powder fouling, black powder substitutes and primer fouling.

VII. WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ has color indicators show the presence of metal fouling, powder fouling and carbon. (Metal fouling is navy blue, Powder fouling is grey or black, Carbon is tan or brown.)

VIII. WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is odorless, relatively safe and easy to use.

IX. WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ cannot gum or leave behind solids that render the firearm useless.

X. WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ contains NO ACID and NO AMMONIA.

XI. WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ leaves a lubricant in the barrel that facilitates the easy loading of the next round.

 

Check out this article: Clean Faster and Easier with Tubing Fitted to your Chamber

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Download the Full PDF Version Here

 

TECHNICAL BULLETIN 1:

Click here for downloadable version

INSTRUCTIONS: HOW TO USE “PAINLESS”™ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER

This is the first product of it’s kind to address the issues involved in easily cleaning a black powder firearm. We call this product ‘PAINLESS” because of all the hassle that has been associated with the complicated and laborious task of cleaning these firearms. Many shooters have refused to shoot blackpowder firearms or have given them up because of the ugly task that this cleaning involved. The new sister product is the answer to this problem!

The recommended use for WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is to apply it and let it set to dissolve the fouling from the barrel for  2 minutes to 20 minutes The product has a working life of more than 24 hours. However, many shooters will find that they can clean a barrel completely, however in under 2 minutes. This can be a particular advantage to those shooters who need a product that will clean in the shortest time possible because they have severe time constraints. The general blackpowder shooter falls in to this group because they all have minimal amounts of time to clean their firearms, and more importantly minimal amounts of patients. Black powder shooters know that just a few shots will g force you to clean due to the degradation of accuracy. In these particular situations a faster, and easier method of cleaning is necessary.

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ was developed to answer those problems and many more.

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is extremely easy to use. You apply to the muzzle depress the button on the can top and fill the barrel. While WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is still wet in the bore you simply patch out after 2 minutes to 20 minutes. If your second patch comes out clean, your done !

Our tests show that using WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ will effectively dissolve much more fouling than any other method. There is absolutely NO BRUSHING. The barrel is cleaned with only patches. Or in other words WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ work faster and easier, making cleaning a black powder firearm truly “PAINLESS’.

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is as safe to use for all metal finishes as well as both stainless steel and carbon steel.

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ it self is a revolutionary new product that solves all the problems encountered with conventional black powder bore cleaners. NO more hot soapy water, or sloppy buckets. NO more endless brushing. NO harsh chemicals.

Loss of accuracy is normal in all black powder firearms after just a few shots. When these firearms get fouled without cleaning after they have been used in a prolonged shooting session, can be nearly impossible to clean in a single session. The barrel will become fouled with gun powder residue as a result of combustion, additionally: other materials are deposited internally to the barrel, carbon and metal fouling from bullet material, or plastic from the use of a saboted round. These are the most difficult to remove and are the greatest cause for the loss of accuracy in a firearm.

Operating instructions:

Apply WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ into the barrel by means of a the adapter on the can spout. Push and hold tightly on the muzzle until a small amount of the “suds” is extruded from the primer hole or nipple. You may also apply a small amount to a patch for a quick pass thru the barrel, in between regular cleanings. Put the patch which has been wetted with the solution on a jag, and swamp it thru the barrel. Black powder Cartridge fire arms may be applied from the breach end . Stop the application when Wipe-Out™ is present at either the muzzle or the chamber. Place the firearm down horizontally on the bench. Wait for as little as 2 minutes to 20 minutes. Put a clean cotton patch on a a good jag and push through the bore. The use of a bore brush is not necessary, ever. Additionally, for really stubborn fouling WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ may be left in the barrel as long as 24 to 36 hours. “PAINLESS“™ is great to put on a patch in the field for a quick tune-up.

Email: getinfo@sharpshootr.com

Proudly “Made in the USA”

NEW APPLICATOR SPOUT FOR INLINE MUZZLE LOADERS

 

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is available in a 14 ounce aerosol can. 

WIPE-OUT ‘PAINLESS’ BLACK POWDER BORE CLEANER ™ is available in a 8 ounce bottle. 

Manufactured and sold by, Sharp Shoot R Precision Products®. The product is available to all distributors, and dealers in this market area.

 

TECHNICAL BULLETIN 2:

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HOW TO USE THE “PROOF TEST” ©

The “PROOF TEST” is used any time you need to know what condition the barrel is in. We use the “PROOF TEST” when we need to know if a firearm is clean or needs to be cleaned.

TO RUN A “PROOF TEST” you put an application of either WIPE-OUT ™ or PATCH-OUT ™ in the barrel of the gun you wish to test. Let this application set in the barrel around 10 minutes. Push a single patch thru tho bore. If there is any fouling present in this barrel it will show up immediately on the patch. 10 minutes is long enough for the chemicals in our formula to react to any sort of fouling.

1.Copper will show up on the patch with a deep navy blue color.

2.Carbon will show up on a patch as the color brown.

3.Powder fouling will always be gray or black in color.

4. Molybdenum will show up as long black stripes ( it’s coming off the bottom of the grooves)

No color or a clean white patch is evidence of a clean barrel.

We use this test any time we are not sure of the condition of the bore…….or to determine if we need to re-apply

either WIPE-OUT ™ or PATCH-OUT ™.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU SHOW COLOR ON A PATCH AFTER RUNNING THE “PROOF TEST”

If you get any color on the patches it will be necessary to re-apply either WIPE-OUT ™ or PATCH-OUT ™ and then let them set of another overnight session. Color on a patch after an overnight session is evidence that the cleaning products used in the past have been in-effective. The most heavily fouled firearms usually do not require more than 3 overnight applications. Run the “PROOF TEST” after each overnight session to see in the firearm is once and for all finally clean.

DIRECTIONS FOR A BADLY FOULED BARREL

Badly fouled barrels that show color after the “PROOF TEST” should have another application of either WIPE-OUT ™ or PATCH-OUT ™ and should be left to soak overnight. Patch out the barrel the next morning and re-run the “PROOF TEST” . No color means you have a dead clean bore. Now you should be able to put 20 tp 50 rounds on this barrel and clean it in something less than 1 hour……in most cases under ½ hour. NO MORE GUESSING…….The “PROOF TEST” is the most reliable way to determine the condition of your firearms.

If necessary and you have a barrel that is heavily fouled with copper, you always have the option to use some ACCELERATOR ™. This product may be used in conjunction with either WIPE-OUT ™ or PATCH-OUT ™

 

TECHNICAL BULLETIN 3:

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Barrel Break In

Document#70 ©

Let’s start by discussing the particular nature of the inside of a barrel in a modern firearm. There are practically no standards of barrel material (which may be carbon steel or stainless), nor are there very many standards in the methods of producing the rifling inside. With this in mind it is easy to understand why there are not many “givens” in the process of barrel break in. Most of the barrels produced fall into two classes. “Factory barrels” are those that come your major brand complete firearm. “Custom barrels” produced by independent custom manufacturers, that offer a wider range of selection and generally a much higher degree of quality. The “Custom barrel” is usually installed by your favorite gunsmith or custom rifle maker.

The rifling process starts with thru-drilling a blank of barrel steel. The straightness of this primary hole drilling is just as important as the following methods of rifling are. Barrel makers have a varied number of grooves in the rifling they can produce. This process is usually achieved by either one of three methods. The way most barrels were made for centuries was to “Cut” rifling in the barrel by the means of a Hook and Broach. Today most barrels produced by this method are called “Cut Rifle Barrels”. The second method of producing rifling in a barrel is called “Button Rifled Barrels”. A button made usually of a carbide steel alloy, is forced thru the barrel to produce a “Button Rifle Barrel”. Lastly is the “Hammer-forged barrel” which is produced by first thru-drilling an oversize hole, placing a mandrel inside which has the rifling on its exterior. The barrel blank is then “hammered” with tremendous pressure in a 360 manner to shrink the barrel down around the mandrel. All of these processes are capable of producing barrels that can produce incredible accuracy.

Let’s get a couple of things straight in our thinking. You probably have heard about “rough” barrels, and very “smooth” barrels. I can tell you for a certainty that there are both “rough barrels “and “smooth barrels” that have great accuracy. The “rough barrel” will, however, generally allow fouling to build up quicker. You have to be aware of this fact when you are breaking in your new barrel. You will be looking for factors that will help you determine which of the two groups this new barrel is going fit in. If it’s going to be in the “rough barrel” group you’re just going to have to clean more often. “Custom barrels” generally have been lapped to one degree or the other before they leave the factory. It’s a good idea to find out from the maker if this is part of their practice because lapping will start the break in process. “Factory barrels” have no general rule either when it comes to lapping. You need to check this out in every instance. Lapping can smooth the barrel and help to minimize the build-up of fouling. Lapping by the way is achieved by using a mild abrasive on a patch and “working ” on the rough spots, a process done exclusively by feel.

Just what the heck comprises fouling ? Well fouling in a barrel really could be considered anything that is deposited after a round has been fired. Fouling build-up is what causes a barrel to lose accuracy. Fouling is found in three major categories, and several minor ones. Lets look at the “majors” first !

1. Powder and primer fouling leave a gritty greyish black residue. Powder fouling generally has some degree of corrosive nature on any type of steel. Black powder fouling is highly corrosive and needs to be removed immediately. Shooting a black powder firearm can give you a much better understanding of what the negative nature of fouling is, because a black powder firearm will lose accuracy due to fouling after a very few shots ( 4 or 5 shots usually) Smokeless powder fouling is not as pronounces because it produces less residue than black powder. Clean burning powder is a good thing ! There is still a lot of military ammunition around that uses highly corrosive primers and powder. This fouling like black powder needs to be cleaned and neutralized immediately. You also need to know what the fouling threshold is an any particular firearm. This is part of the education you receive in barrel break in. By the way powder fouling is deposited over most the inner barrel surface.

An ugly sub-species of fouling is the particular propensity of the deterrent coating on ball powder. This fouling is normally present in the area directly ahead of the throat. It is one of the most difficult form of fouling to remove. It is powder fouling, but leaves a particularly nasty form of hard carbon fouling that is almost crystalline in nature.

2.Carbon fouling is caused by the by products of burning powder. Carbon fouling can also be caused by the burning oil you left in the barrel. Carbon will always look brown on a patch, and it is distinctly different in color from powder fouling. Carbon is usually deposited in the rear 20 percent of the barrel You can see lots of carbon build-up in the “throat area of the barrel. The throat is just forward of the chamber. A bore scope will also show you just what the flame temperature of the powder will do to the throat. You will see a lot of fissures and cracks in the steel, and these are generally filled with carbon. When the “throat ” is gone or “shot out”, so is the accuracy of the barrel. Carbon fouling is probably the most difficult to remove, because it has a great “cling” factor. Cool burning powders are a “good thing.”

3. Copper fouling in general has been one of the most over-looked areas of barrel fouling. Most of the old traditional “Powder Solvents”, are just that. They get rid of most f the powder fouling, some of the carbon, and NONE of the copper fouling. I personally have seen many rifles that had as many as 6 or 7 distinct layers of fouling, just like a “Black Forest Torte”. There are many firearms, the dealers tell me; are traded in because the owner believes the rifle is “shot out.” In most cases they are badly copper fouled, and are in need of a good cleaning. When the copper is removed these rifles return to their previous accuracy. Copper fouling is generally found in the last 20 percent of the barrel. The reason for this is that this portion of the barrel is where the bullet has achieved maximum velocity, and maximum friction. Believe it or not, most of the barrel heat is caused by bullet friction. Flame temperatures from burning powder can be felt in the chamber area. Bullet friction is felt at the end of the barrel. You should notice that the mid portion of the barrel is a bit cooler than either one of the previously mentioned. Rifle target shooters and varmint hunters for the most part have been long been aware of problems caused by copper fouling. If copper fouling is present it is easily visible to the naked eye. Look down the muzzle end of the rifle using a strong light. If it’s there, …….there will be pronounced copper streaks on the rifling. In the past the only way to remove copper has been with strong solutions containing lots of ammonia. The removal always required lots and lots of brushing. Along with that there have been lots of rifles that were not “shot out” they were “cleaned out.” Just count the number of passes you take thru a barrel using this stuff. Then multiply that number times the number of cleanings, and finally multiply that number times the age. The product is thousands of strokes through a barrel. There is NO way you can pass a cleaning rod thru a barrel that many times and “NOT” compromise the quality of the barrel. Brushing is not a “good thing.”

With all this in mind we now can turn to the task itself of breaking in a new barrel. Generally we can say that most new barrels are “broken in” somewhere between 50 and 100 rounds. In my personal experience I have seen some factory barrels that would not settle down in to shooting good groups until 200 or so rounds had been fired. You should be able to see a marked improvement in grouping as the barrel “breaks in”.

Firstly you need to make sure that your new barrel is dead clean. Apply Wipe-Out™ or Patch-Out™ and let it sit for an 20 minutes. Patch out the barrel and re-apply Wipe-Out ,or Patch-Out™ letting the second application sit of at least 10 minutes. This second application is a “Proof Test”. It will ‘ prove’ if the first application really got the barrel clean. Twenty minutes is long enough for the chemicals in Wipe-Out to react if there is any fouling left in the barrel. Remember that copper will leave a blue patch. Powder fouling will leave a patch greyish black. Carbon will always leave a brown color on the patch. If, after the second application of Wipe-Out or Patch-Out™ there is still color on the patch, you will need to re-apply Wipe-Out or Patch-Out™ and let it set overnight. When you get a clean white patch, using Wipe-Out, that means that the barrel is “dead clean”.

THE ACTUAL BREAK IN PROCESS

We can now start the ” break in” process. What we want is to let the barrel tell us how far we are in the “break in ” process. I also recommend using a good coated one piece cleaning rod and a bore guide in the cleaning process. Be sure to use a caliber specific jag and good 100% cotton patches.

What we are going to do is to always shoot for a group. It is group size that is a major factor in determining if your barrel is breaking in. The groups should get progressively smaller as the barrel is breaking in. You would have no idea of your progress if you were pinned to the old method of “one shot and clean’. Most good modern barrels will be “broken in” in somewhere between 25 and 100 rounds.

Step # 1

With a clean barrel the first thing I recommend is to fire three shots, using ammunition that I know is accurate in this cartridge. Remember that we are shooting for the best grouping possible. The concentration of shots into a small group will also tell us how far along the barrel is in the “break in ” process. I then apply Wipe-Ou or Patch-Out™ t and let the bore cleaner sit for approximately 20 minutes. Pay close attention to the color left on the patches, because the color will tell you what is going on in the barrel with regard to fouling.

Step#2 (no evidence of copper on the patch)

Apply the second application of Wipe-Out or Patch-Out™ …….the “proof test” application, and let it set another 20 minutes. If you do not get any color on the patch after this second application, you then know that the initial application really did clean the barrel. You may the proceed shooting groups of three shots, cleaning after each group of three. I normally will fire around 10 groups of three shots. I am interested to see if the groups are tightening The barrel will tell you if it is copper fouling by the patch color. If I am not getting blue on the patch, I normally will increase to four shot groups, cleaning in between each fired group. If I still have no evidence of copper on the patch after a four shot group, I will then progress to five shot groups. The barrel will tell you if it is copper fouling by the evidence left on the patch.

Step #2A ( Patch has blue on the patch)

If I get evidence of copper on the patch after the second application, it will probably be best to drop down to shooting groups with 2 shots. Make sure that the barrel is clean, with no color on the patches. Then begin shooting two shot groups. If the barrel is showing lots of copper (blue) on the patch with two shot groups, then it is time to use Wipe-Out or Patch-Out™ and Accelerator. This will speed the time it takes to remove the copper. Also it will speed up the time between firings. Repeat two shot groups cleaning between each group firing. When you get very little evidence of copper blue color on the patch, it is time to go to three shot groups.

The barrel may still show evidence of copper after total 100 rounds has been fired in groups of two, three, four or five . That is not indicative of anything other than the fact that this barrel will copper foul easily and it will need to be cleaned more often.

Many custom barrels will show little or no copper during the “break in” period. What is most important is that the barrel is clean between each group firing. As the barrel is breaking in you will be able to realize a definite improvement in group size. Smaller for a change, is always better. The beauty using Wipe-Out or Patch-Out™ in the “break in ” process is the fact that the barrel quality has not been compromised by endless amounts of brushing. Nor are you using a witches brew of 4 or 5 chemical products, each accompanied by more and more brushing.

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